Image source: http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/images/rappel_device_extended.jpg
There is an excessive volume of information in contact in belaying, and for that reason I intend to make it a short series of three articles, instead of looking to cram all of it into one. Look out for part two almost suitable away.
The leading benefit of the direct belay is that the belayer does not take any of the force generated by a fall because he/she is removed from the belay chain. The rope can be shortly tied off, and the belayer is then free to get well the fallen climber.
When climbing in a fixed, belaying adds the necessary safety factor, permitting the group to climb with a minimum of danger. Two or three climbers are tied into a climbing rope. The use of a rope in group climbing is often recognised as a hazard without belaying benefit. It may well be necessary to use one of heaps of belay positions. Either with the frame, or mechanical belay device. Belaying involves a desk bound climber managing and controlling the rope that is tied to a load. It is used to control descent on rope installations.
The benefit of the indirect belay method is that only two anchor problems (central and secondary) are required for the belayer and the climbing rope. It is tons more easy and speedier to set up and retrieve than a suitable away belay.
There are continually three aspects well-liked to any belay. These are: a mannequin of belay (direct or indirect); a procedure of controlling the rope (static or dynamic); and a procedure of managing the rope (frame or mechanical).
The indirect belay may well be used for mechanical or frame belays. The belayer is in direct contact with the climbing rope and is a part of the belay chain. With this setup the load is partly absorbed by the belayer.
The disadvantage adequately is that the belayer, being a part of the belay chain, sustains a part of the force generated by a fall. And, being a part of that chain, cannot easily detach from the rope to lend suggestions.
The two basic sorts of belay are direct and indirect. The direct belay involves employing a mechanical device. The belayer is connected to a point of protection, and conducts the mechanical belay from an trade point of protection. In this mannequin of belay the load goes instantly to the anchor.